Study tracks clothing flows
The report, Sorting for Circularity: Project Rewear, presents findings from a year-long investigation into the international second-hand clothing system. Researchers combined garment analysis in four European countries with fieldwork in Ghana and Pakistan. The project also tested repair services, artificial intelligence-supported sorting technologies and digital aftersales systems.
Most garments remain wearable
Researchers examined 8,280 garments collected in Europe. The analysis showed that 37 per cent of items had no visible damage, while 41 per cent contained only one minor defect. According to the report, the main barrier to reuse is not garment quality but the economics of collection, sorting and resale.
Exported clothing often arrives damaged
The study found that more than 86 per cent of garments sampled at Kantamanto Market arrived in damaged condition despite being exported as reusable clothing. Traders typically purchase compressed bales without knowing the exact contents. As a result, local sellers carry the financial risk and must also manage the disposal of unsellable textiles.
Repair and sorting show mixed results
The report concludes that circular business models can become economically viable under certain conditions. Artificial intelligence-supported sorting systems improved profitability in modelling scenarios, increasing projected annual profits for a mid-sized sorting facility from break-even levels to approximately €6.5 million.
Repair services proved commercially viable mainly for higher-value garments such as outerwear and denim. In contrast, repairing low-cost fast fashion items often costs more than the potential resale value.
Rewear alone will not reduce textile waste
Researchers warn that reuse systems alone cannot solve the growing textile waste problem. Without lower production volumes, second-hand markets risk operating alongside the existing linear fashion system rather than replacing it. The report therefore calls for stronger measures to reduce overproduction while improving textile collection, sorting and reuse infrastructure.
