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Pilot project targets elastane recycling barrier

Fashion for Good has launched Stretching Circularity, a collaborative project aimed at accelerating the adoption of bio-based and recycled elastane compatible with circular textile systems. The initiative focuses on validating lower-impact elastane alternatives through pilot-scale testing and demonstrator garments in order to address technical barriers to fibre-to-fibre recycling.
Pilot project targets elastane recycling barrier
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Elastane is used in approximately 80 percent of clothing to provide stretch and comfort. It is typically added in concentrations ranging from one to five percent by weight in cotton or wool garments and up to 20 percent in polyester or polyamide garments. As a fossil-based material, elastane contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and the use of non-renewable resources. In addition, even low concentrations of elastane can interfere with established textile recycling processes. In fibre-to-fibre recycling streams for high-volume materials such as polyester and cotton, elastane can act as a contaminant, limiting recyclability and reducing the quality of secondary raw materials. As a result, many blended textiles are currently downcycled or disposed of.

Stretching Circularity addresses these challenges through two parallel workstreams. The first focuses on next-generation elastane derived from alternative inputs, including bio-based feedstocks. As part of this work, technical and non-technical demonstrator garments are being produced, including a technical T-shirt containing 10 percent elastane and a non-technical T-shirt containing 2 percent elastane. The second workstream evaluates regenerated elastane produced through emerging recycling technologies. Both approaches follow a pilot-scale validation framework to generate comparable data on material performance, environmental impact, economic feasibility and scalability.

The consortium includes Levi Strauss & Co (Beyond Yoga), On, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials and Reformation, with Ralph Lauren Corporation acting as an advisor. Additional technical input is provided by Materiom and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. The partners represent multiple stages of the textile value chain and are collaborating to identify data gaps, assess material compatibility with existing recycling infrastructure and evaluate the performance requirements of conventional elastane applications. The project applies a structured due diligence and validation process to determine whether alternative elastane materials can meet industrial processing and product performance standards.

According to Fashion for Good, the project is intended to provide pilot-scale data required for industrial adoption of bio-based and recycled elastane. By generating comparable performance and recyclability data, the initiative seeks to support informed decision-making and reduce implementation risks for brands and manufacturers working to improve textile circularity.

Source: Fashion for good
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